Day 4 – Gosol to Peguera
- Starting Point: Gosol
- Ending Point: Peguera/Cal Barbut
- Distance: 18 kilometers/ 11 miles
- Altitude Gain/Loss (in meters): 900 ascent, 700 descent
- Est. Time on Trail: 7 – 9 hours
The trail runs right by the Hostal Cal Fransisco, so minutes after we checked out we were back on the path again. This is the second longest day of the Spanish side of the Cami dels Bons Homes, and is just as physically intense as Day 2 was.
The first leg of the trail runs through farm land and the valley bed, past a couple of small villages, as the impressive Pedraforca mountain stands every vigilant to your left.
After a couple of hours you will find yourself in a quiet forest and the path begins to climb steeply, switch-backing up and up until you reach a mountain pass, where you will have great glimpses of the Pedraforca again.
Once at the pass prepare yourself for beautiful views as the forest gives way to a meadow. This is a great place for a picnic before you begin a steep and rocky descent. A few hours later you will find yourself at the abandoned town of Peguera. From there you can arrange to be picked up and driven four kilometers to the only real accommodation in the area, Cal Barbut.
The Hike – Gosol to Peguera
This section was arguably the most intense day on the Catalonian side of the Cami dels Bons Homes trail. The altitude gain and loss was not as great as Day 2 but the inclines and descents were more steep and slippery. Although this day was a challenge, it was also the most rewarding in terms of natural beauty and the wildlife we encountered.
The day begins in Gosol and the first section of the trail winds its way past farm land and small Catalonian villages. Cow bells and views of the towering Pedraforca mountain will be your constant companion for much of this enjoyable first stage.
Eventually the path begins to wind its way through a forest and suddenly you find yourself on a steep switch-backing trail. The trail levels off after a nearly 900 meter ascent and carries you through the now thinning woods. If you are lucky, and quiet, you will encounter deer on this leg of the trail.
Eventually, upon reaching the mountain pass, you will find yourself in a stunning meadow overlooking the next valley you will be making your way down into. Take a lunch here, and rest up a little bit, as the next path of the trail is a slippery, steep descent down a very rocky section of the Cami (see below).
Portions of the trail are akin to a dry river composed of various sized rocks and boulders making for a very slow and tedious climb up or down. These sections proved to be the most challenging we experienced on the Cami dels Bons Homes and at some points we had to maneuver our way in a crouched fashion using our hands to steady ourselves in order to make our way down without losing our footing. Good boots (and a knee brace if you need one) are recommended for this section.
Freshly upturned soil along parts of the trail indicate the presence of wild boar. A few kilometers from Peguera we spotted at least a half dozen deer as they carefully but gracefully lept across the trail in front and behind us.
A few hours in to the day’s hike we were rewarded for our efforts with what is likely the most beautiful natural surrounding either of us has experienced. A wide open field sits atop the mountain pass, with vast views of the surrounding areas, lush grass, an array of wildflowers, a smattering of evergreen groves, and big blue sky that appears to be only an arm’s reach away. A true reward for the senses. We had a picnic here and carried the memory of the beauty of the mountain meadow with us for days afterwards.
Where to Stay Near Peguera
We stayed at the small mountain hotel Cal Barbut, which means “the house of the bearded man”.
The original building on this section of property dates back to the 18th century. The hotel accommodates up to 14 guests and has a rustic, yet modern farmhouse design.
A delicious breakfast and dinner/BBQ can be had in the shared dining room. The owner, Charlotte, makes her own sausages from local meat, and is extremely knowledgeable about the surrounding area, and the hikes found in the vicinity.
Those interested in returning to the region can consider her an English speaking expert on outdoor activities for the area. Cal Barbut is 4 km from the trail, if you prefer not to make the walk Charlotte can pick you up at no extra charge.
Next is a breakdown of Day 5 of our hike on the Cami dels Bons Homes!