Getting Off the Beaten Path in Prague
There is SO much value in getting off the beaten path in Prague. Venture forth from Old Town center and the common Prague sightseeing destinations and you might be amazed by how many awesome places you will find.
We lived in Prague for two years, on and off, and would live there for two more without any hesitation. It is a gorgeous city with impressive architecture, laid-back locals, and troves of hidden treasures just waiting to be discovered.
After spending our first few weeks in sightseeing in Prague it became clear to us that far too few visitors venture outside of the center of the city. It seems that most tourists stay within Old Town or Malá Strana without ever leaving.
This is a true shame, as there is SO much more to the City of a Hundred Spires than what the average visitor experiences. Here’s why you should get off the beaten path once you are done with the basic aspects of sightseeing Prague.
The Benefits of Getting Off the Beaten Path in Prague
“Prague’s center is too awesome, and too beautiful. I’m not leaving”, you might say.
Truth is we wouldn’t really blame you for making that statement. Prague’s Old Town and its nearby surroundings ARE freaking awesome, and the sights to see in Prague are numerous. We have certainly spent a LOT of time exploring and photographing Prague’s attractions. That said, if all you see in Prague is the Old Town, and the center, you will be doing yourself a disservice.
By getting off the beaten path in Prague you will be:
- Escaping the crowds of tourists gathering around all of Prague’s top attractions.
- Observing how locals live out their lives in this amazing city.
- Discovering all the extremely cool architecture, churches, parks, and landmarks that Prague is filled with.
- Experiencing how laid back Prague actually is. Every city has its share of stress, and assholes, but Prague seems to have…less. Whatever the reason, Prague didn’t squeeze us like most major cities tend to do after awhile. People socialize at wine shops after work, standing outside drinking Czech wine out of glasses they brought from home. Elsewhere, friends gather over amber hued pints in beer gardens and pubs to discuss trivialities. During the summer people make use of all the public grass available in parks, chatting and picnicking. It’s obvious to us that the quality of life in Prague is high…much higher than many of the cities we have had the pleasure of visiting.
- Contributing to the local economy outside of the center. We really can’t emphasize enough how important it is for visitors to spend their money outside the biggest tourist zones, and away from the biggest Prague attractions. As visitors in a foreign city we have to be aware that we are essentially helping to take the central portions of that city away from the locals who live and work there. Just as Times Square no longer truly belongs to New Yorkers so does Prague’s Old Town cater to mainly tourists. Spending money outside of the center helps distribute some of the wealth directly to locals. If you want to know why we think this is important check out our article on responsible tourism.
With all of the above in mind we crafted a guide to some of the destinations and neighborhoods in Prague that we feel people should attempt to visit and explore. Not only will you experience a side of Prague many miss out on, but you can rub shoulders with locals and get a small taste of everyday life in this wonderful city.
There are, of course, many places that we will be leaving out due to space constraints, or because we ourselves have yet to discover them. Which is why we urge anyone visiting to stray down a less traveled street, explore what is around the furthest corner, and to get off the beaten path in Prague.
Make sure to have a look at our article on where to stay in Prague!
Quench your thirst after all of Prague’s top attractions with this guide on places to drink delicious beer in Prague!
Party until the wee morning hours with this guide to Prague’s nightlife.
Once you have explored enough leave and take one of these amazing day trips from Prague!
Not sure when to visit? Read our guide on which season to visit Prague and the Czech Republic!
Getting off the Beaten Path in Prague
Start your journey away from Prague’s top attractions with a stroll to, and through, this lovely park.
Situated on a large hill overlooking the city in the neighborhood of Vinohrady, this park was our number one go-to spot on nice weekday evenings. Catch fabulous sunset views from the top of the hill, or chill out in one of the TWO beer gardens just a few meters away.
The neighborhood of Vinohrady is located a short tram or metro ride from the center, and is home to many expats and local professionals. We highly recommend strolling along the leafy streets of Vinohrady during the day to experience a bit of daily local life before visiting Reigrovy Sady and its beer gardens for a Pilsner Urquell infused sunset.
You can easily walk to Vinohrady from Prague’s main train station as well. Just follow Vinohradska street east away from the station and you will very soon find yourself in this fantastic neighborhood.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Jiřího z Poděbrad (JZP)
This large square rests just a few streets from Riegrovy Sady, in the neighborhood of Zizkov, making it a perfect place to visit after seeing the park. Just walk south and east from Riegrovy Sady and in a few minutes you will find yourself in Jiriho z Podebrad.
JZP (as it is called by some expats) is adorned by one of the funkier churches in Prague, the Most Sacred Heart of our Lord or Kostel nejsvětějšího srdce Pán (try saying that five times real fast, we dare you). Resembling a stern amalgamation of a courthouse and a clock tower the church overlooks a lively and festive park.
There are events and festivities occurring pretty frequently in Jiřího z Poděbrad, and the park is home to a small but awesome farmer’s market four times a week, from Wednesdays to Saturdays.
The area around JZP is filled with rich with cozy cafes, delicious food options, funky bars, and creative local businesses. During our time in Prague we lived a couple of streets away from the square and explored its surroundings extensively.
We wanted to take a moment to highlight a few of our favorite businesses within a couple minutes walk from JZP and its metro stop.
Read more about getting off the beaten path in Prague by exploring Zizkov!
Locals Businesses Around JZP That We Love
In the interest of promoting small local businesses, which every traveler should endeavor to support, we want to highlight a few that we absolutely adore that are locate din close proximity to JZP. Spend your money on local businesses guys!
Forget mass produced “I Love Prague” t-shirts and other tacky souvenirs, THIS is where you go if you want to get someone a thoughtful gift from Prague. We might be a bit biased since we both love to scribble in notebooks, but blanks books make for a great gift. Skoba makes some of the coolest notebooks and diaries that we have ever seen.
The owner, Vaclav Pisoft, quit his desk job a few years ago to follow his passion of bookbinding. Skoba produces custom made, handcrafted, notebooks from upcycled materials.
Although the shop has hundreds of prepared notebooks on hand, Vaclav also works with clients to create custom one-off orders and breathe new life into sentimental belongings. Bring him a piece of old clothing that holds sentimental value, comic books or personal sketches, classic movie posters, or whatever else you can think of and Skoba can turn it into a notebook for you.
So go to Skoba, buy yourself or a loved one the gift of a handcrafted notebook, and spend your money in a truly unique local business.
Not many people leave school with a plan for a full fledged business. But Jan Kloss and Jakub Korouš, the founders of Botas66, are one of the few exceptions.
The design school duo chose Botas, a traditional Czech shoe brand that dates back to 1949, as the centerpiece for a school project. The goal: redesign a traditional Czech product and its packaging. Well, they straight up aced the assignment because in 2009 the Botas company agreed to work in cooperation with them on a new line of designer sneakers.
And thus, Botas66 was born.
Now, seven years later, Botas66 is thriving. They company has two shops located in Prague, one in Žižkov and the Old Town, and an e-shop online. The brand produces funky designs in small, limited edition batches. The shoes are all made within two hours of Prague, and they even offer certified Vegan editions for those who wish to maintain a cruelty-free lifestyle.
So, if you are looking to upgrade your footwear to something unique, hip, and stylish while in Prague head to BOTAS 66 and try on a pair of kicks.
Moment Cafe and Bistro
You might be surprised to learn that Prague is one of the most vegan friendly destinations in the world. There are over 30 vegan restaurants in the city to choose from, and our favorite is Moment Vegan Bistro & Cafe.
Located just a few blocks from JZP, Moment is a quaint and cozy restaurant that serves up a fully vegan menu of dishes like scrambled “eggs”, vegan burgers, and falafel. During weekdays Moment also has a fantastic and affordable two course lunch menu that changes daily.
What we love most about Moment though, is the dessert. It’s out of this world and you’d probably be shocked that it is vegan if you didn’t know better. We highly recommend the Dessert Cup, a crumbled chocolate cake, layered with whipped vegan cream. Absolutely freakin’ delicious!
Vyšehrad – Prague’s Second Castle
Sitting high atop a lofty hill overlooking the south of Prague, Vysehrad towers over the city. Visit this ancient compound to check out it truly massive walls, the beautiful park contained within which surrounds a gorgeous cathedral. Honestly this castle and it’s walled complex should account at one of Prague’s top attractions but for some reason a lot of tourists never make it over here.
Vysehrad, and its towering walls, grants many vantage points for photographers and dreamers by providing commanding views of the River Vltava, its bridges, and Prague Castle. Have a look at the picture below for what you can expect to see on a spring afternoon.
Vsyehrad’s beauty does not wane with the seasons. In warmer weather enjoy a frothy pint at one of the beer gardens, and catch a lazy sunset. In the fall come for the turning foliage and a matching red rooftop view of the city.
While you’re there be sure to explore the lovely and tranquil grounds and don’t miss the impressive Romanesque Rotunda of St Martin, the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, and the small, but beautiful Slavín cemetery.
Getting off the Beaten Path in Prague – Naplavka River Walk
Located along a stretch of the Vltava River just south of Prague Castle, Naplavka is just a few steps away from many tourist hot spots. And yet it is often overlooked by visitors who don’t think to stroll the river away from the Castle in the evenings.
When the weather is warm this stretch of stone walkway comes alive with the sounds of music, revelry, clinking mugs, and gently lapping waves. We recommend having a visit during one of your evenings in Prague between April and October.
On Saturday mornings a portion of Naplavka turns into a lively farmers market that you should try to visit. Just make sure to be there before 2 PM, or you’ll miss out.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – A Night Out in Žižkov
Situated off the sloping side of the Vinohrady hilltop, Zizkov is a cobblestone maze of looming apartment buildings. No two of the red roofed buildings are the same, differing in facade and color.
If you want to play a little game venture into Zizkov and try to find two identical buildings. Send us photo proof of your accomplishment and we will reward you with a Special Prize. Read the super fine print at the bottom of this article for all the rules and regulations.
That’s not the only thing that makes this neighborhood dope, though.
You see, Zizkov has more bars in a square kilometer than any other areas in Prague, which is no small task if you stop to think about it. The Czech Republic consumes more beer per capita than just about any country on the planet, and is home to a LOT of bars. Nowhere more so than in Zizkov. Thus Zizkov becomes one of Prague’s top attractions for anyone looking to find a party.
We’re not saying that the ONLY thing to do in Zizkow is nightlife, but we DO highly recommend you venture out there for at least one evening. There are way too many bars, wine shops, and cafes to recommend without making this a Yellow Pages sized article, so we’ll get you started with two recommendations and let you find the rest on your own.
If you’re a fan of Charles Bukowski then this bar’s name is probably all the convincing you need to go pay a visit. Bukowski’s dimly lit interior feels like its from another era, and the cocktails are deliciously (and fairly priced). Try the Naked Lunch. Trust us.
Malcovich bar is an ideal if you’re looking for an intimate drinking experience, or if you don’t want to smell like an ashtray at the end of the night [note – smoking has been banned indoors in most places in Prague since the time of writing. No more smelling like an ashtray!].
This cosy bar serves up inexpensive wine, beer, and cocktails in a super relaxed and comfortable setting. It’s the perfect place to meet friends for a chat or for a first date.
There are literally a ton of other great bars and local hang outs in Zizkov including an indoor rock climbing bar and two bowling alleys. Just hit the streets and walk around a bit to explore for yourself. You’re bound to find some place that strikes your fancy.
Check out our guide to exploring Zizkov for more great bars and cafes in this awesome neighborhood!
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Olšany Cemetery
We know that including a cemetery on a list of things to do and see in Prague might seem a bit strange. But seriously, this one is totally worth visiting.
Olšany Cemetery exudes a dreamlike ambiance as you first enter and pass by aged gravestones, crooked and over-grown with lush green ivy; speckled with moss. A thick canopy of trees, their roots gently twisting into the dark earth, blot out all signs and most sounds of the outside world.
Walking deeper into the hushed profundity of the cemetery, among the worn stones and sloped icons, you can get lost in weight of all the lives once lived by its inhabitants. Thousands of stories lay all around you, each one unique.
If you are interested in exploring a slightly off the beaten path aspect of Prague’s past, head to Olsany Cemetery. If you are looking to get away from the city for a hour, and have a quite contemplative stroll, consider heading to Olsany Cemetery as well. History buffs might be interested to know that the cemetery is the final resting place of Franz Kafka and Jan Palach.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Vršovice (Krymska)
To say Vršovice has changed recently would be an understatement. Once a quiet working class neighborhood it now attracts more of an artist and hipster crowd. There are a myriad of cool cafes, bars, shops, and restaurants; many of which are located on Krymska street.
To get a taste of Vršovice and all its glory, we suggest the following establishments:
- BAR v Krymský: Quiet bar with a local vibe and nice music.
- Bad Flash Bar: Craft Beer Bar
- Plevel Restaurant: Vegan Restaurant
- Café V lese: Coffee Shop
- Zenit Cafe: Cafe and Internet Bar
- InCider Bar: Cider Bar
- Czech Inn Bar: Craft beers, events, and live music
Czech Inn Hostel
Need a good laugh? While meandering your way along Krymská street, pop in at the Czech Inn Hostel. In the basement of the hostel is a small bar and theater which regularly hosts a range of improv and comedy acts in English. So, not only is the Czech Inn one of the best hostels in Prague, it’s also a great place to simply hang out, have some beers, and even a few laughs.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Letna District
Gaze across the Vltava River from Prague’s Old Town and you may notice an enormous, green park stretched across the hilltop. This is Letná Park (Letenské sady), and it is home to one of Prague’s largest beer gardens and some of the most stunning views of the city.
While we highly encourage sitting under the garden’s shady canopy and enjoying a beer or two, it’s worth checking out the surrounding Letná district as well. Despite being only a short distance away from the city center, it’s just far enough to maintain its laid-back vibe and is quickly becoming Prague’s most desirable places to live. As a result, the neighborhood has become filled with some seriously cool boutiques, cafes and restaurants.
Piqued your interested? Good! In that case, we suggest checking out the following places for good eats and a good time.
Things to Do in the Letna District
Do fancy the above photo? If so head to Letna Park, and take one yourself.
The sprawling park is situated high above Prague Castle, and offers stunning views of the entire city. Even without the panoramic beauty Letna is a great place to have a quite stroll. Or a picnic, weather permitting.
Since you’re in Prague there is obviously going to be a sweet pub or awesome beer garden in the vicinity. Letna Park is host of one of the largest beer gardens in Prague. You can sit at one of the many tables overlooking the river and sip yet another delicious beer in yet another beautiful location in Prague.
The National Gallery in Prague (Národní galerie v Praze) dates back to the 18th century and is the second oldest gallery in Europe following the Louvre. The state-run organization manages the largest collection of art in the Czech Republic and houses timeless work from the likes of Picasso, Monet, and Van Gogh. After getting your culture fix, grab a coffee and bite to eat at Cafe Jedna on the ground floor.
First opened in the 1930’s, Bio Oko is one of several independent cinemas in Prague. The cinema maintains its throwback charm while moviegoers can choose from a daily program of hollywood classics, indies and international films. Most showings are in English, and the cinema’s small cafe offers a nice selection of Czech wine and local craft beer. You can even bring your drink into the theater with you!
Tracking down a good sausage (klobása) in Prague isn’t a challenge, but finding a legit Chicago-style dog and side of chili cheese fries? That’s another story. If you’re feeling a bit homesick, Mr. HotDog has got your fix. Letná’s American-style hot dog joint is located on Kamenická street (just a few blocks away from Letná Park) and is a neighborhood favorite. When your finished, wash down your favorite dog with a fresh beer from Vinohradský Pivovar.
For all you sweet tooths out there, you may have met your match. Since 1937, Erhart Cafe has been pumping out sinful delights and shows no signs of slowing down. We recommend stopping by the small bakery and trying one of their homemade, traditional Czech pastries. If that isn’t enough to satisfy you, head over to Gelateria Amato for the most delicious ice cream in Letná.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Karlin District
It is said that destruction leads to creation. If this is the case, Karlín district is the living breathing example. Destroyed by catastrophic floods in 2002, the once industrial neighborhood along the Vltava River was in true rags-to-riches fashion reconstructed and reborn as one of Prague’s trendiest districts.
Today, Karlín is a cultural hotspot thanks to the likes of Musical Theater Karlín (Hudební divadlo Karlín ) and Forum Karlín. It is also and an undisputed foodies’ paradise and breeding ground of up-and-coming restauntiers. Often referred to as “Little Berlin”, its wide boulevards, stylish cafes and restaurants, and proximity to the city center have made it a favorite place to live and work among locals.
If you’ve got time to spare, we highly recommend getting off the beaten path and getting your grub, drink, and chill on in Karlín.
So, where to head first?
Things to Do in the Karlin District
St. Cyril And Methodius Church (Karlín)
Towering over Karlín’s main square (Karlínské náměstí) is the enormous Neo-Romanesque St. Cyril And Methodius Church. The basilica was built during the late 1800’s and is one of the largest in the Czech Republic. Besides its obvious beauty, St. Cyril and the surrounding, grassy square are a neighborhood centerpiece and an attractive spot for locals to relax on the lunch breaks or gather with friends on the weekends.
Lokál Hamburk in Karlin
Located directly across from St Cyril And Methodius Church and Karlín’s main square is Lokál Hamburk, (aka the mother of all beer pubs). For decades, its corner location has been a local watering hole for the hardworking people of Karlín. After the flood, the building was remodeled and reopened as one of several Lokál restaurants around Prague. Best known for serving Pilsner Urquell fresh from the tank, Lokál honors its roots while taking a contemporary twist on the traditional beer pub and standard Czech cuisine.
Keeping with the spirit of transformation, we present you Kasárna Karlín. Once the courtyard of an old army barrack, the renovated space is now a family-friendly summer hangout. Complete with volleyball courts, a cafe and open air cinema, Kasárna Karlín is the perfect place to enjoy a cold beverage and spend a lazy summer evening.
Eska in Karlin
If you’re going to do brunch in Prague, Eska is the obvious choice. This restaurant-bakery hybrid serves up a modern take on classic Czech ingredients and traditional dishes. They also bake some of the freshest, most sought after bread in the city. Between their creative cuisine and chic atmosphere, Eska is an instagramers dream. Not to mention, breakfast is served every day until 4pm. Win!
Lyčkovo Square in Karlin
Lyckovo Square (Lyčkovo Náměstí) is easily one of the most beautiful city squares in Prague. It’s most notable landmark is the large, Art Nouveau primary school which was once said to be the most beautiful school in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. If that isn’t enough, check out nearby Kaizel Garden (Kaizlovy Sady) and enjoy a little taste of 19th-century Prague.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Exploring Prague’s Parks
There is no denying that the Czechs love and take great pride in their nature. In fact, on the weekends it’s routine for many locals to ditch the city life altogether and escape to their “cottages” in the countryside. This love of the outdoors and appreciation of green space is why Prague has nearly 200 official city parks.
Of course famed beer gardens of Letná and Riegrovy Sady are among them, but we totally recommend getting off the beaten path and checking out a few more of our favorites.
Grebovka- Havlickovy Sady
Havlickovy Sady, or Grebovka, can be found in Prague’s popular Vinohrady neighborhood. The Italian Renaissance-inspired park is the second largest park in Prague and includes its very own romantic grotto along with several fountains, ponds, statues and an abundance of lush greenery. Oh, and did mention wine? Vinohrady does translate to “vineyards” after all, so it’s only fitting that Havlickovy Sady have its own. Visitors can enjoy a local glass of vino at the Vineyard Gazebo or unwind at the Grébovka Pavilion Garden Café.
Once a 13th-century game reserve for the elite, Stromovka is officially the largest park in Prague. Spanning roughly 250 acres (100 hectare), today it is protected as a national and cultural monument. Located in Prague’s Bubeneč district, Stromovka is home to a sprawling canopy of trees, winding trails and picturesque lake. It is favored among runner, inline skaters and locals young and old.
If you are seriously looking to get off the beaten path, consider a trip to Divoka Sarka. Situated on the north-western outskirts of Prague, Divoká Šárka nature reserve is a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of city life. Its well-marked trails veer through a wild landscape of rocky cliffs, deep forests and a natural spring which eventually empties into the city’s most beautiful public swimming pool.
Although it’s only 40 minutes from the city center, Divoká Šárka is the perfect escape for nature lovers.
Off the Beaten Path in Prague – Vegan Food in Prague
Prague is something of a vegan paradise. While visiting a traditional Czech restaurant as a vegan will likely to leave with a grumbling belly since it’s almost guaranteed the only safe option on the menu is beer. So, at first glance it might not seem so, but being a vegan in Prague is surprisingly easy.
If you stick to the Old Town and other highly touristic parts of the city you won’t find too many vegan restaurants, so getting off the beaten path is necessary to fully embrace the vegan experience in Prague. And once you do, you’ll find a cornucopia of options including restaurants, health food shops, cafes, and bakeries. Additionally, many of the city’s Vietnamese restaurants offer delicious vegan options.
Here are some of our favorite vegan spots in Prague:
- Moment (see above, in the “JZP” section)
- Pastva: incredible, gourmet style vegan restaurant in the Andel neighborhood.
- Sweet Secret of Raw: Raw Vegan Dessert…need we say more?
- Loving Hut Vinohrady: Vegan buffet and delicious vegan pho.
Eat (or Gorge On) Vietnamese Food in Prague
Did you know that there are almost 85,000 Vietnamese people living in the Czech Republic? As the third largest ethnic group in the country the Vietnamese have had a huge cultural impact on Prague. Especially on the food scene. So much so that people in Prague sometimes refer to Vietnamese food as “Prague’s Second Cuisine”.
If you love a hearty bowl of Pho, or a mouth watering Bánh mì, you are going to do very, very well for yourself in Prague. Stray outside of the center towards to Vinohrady and check out restaurants like Pho Family or Madame Lyn for a steamy bowl of taste bud pleasing Pho.
To get a crunchy Vietnamese sandwich head over to a Mr. Bánh mì sandwich shop. There are two locations within easy access of the center that serve up cheap and delicious Banh mi. They even have two vegan banh mi sandwiches on the menu, tofu or mushroom. Score another point for all the vegans out there!
If you REALLY want to stray far from the beaten path and explore Vietnamese culture in Prague you should head to Sapa, also known as Prague’s Little Hanoi. This small neighborhood of shops and restaurants won’t impress you with beautiful architecture but you will find the most authentic Vietnamese food in all of Prague here.
Located, quite literally, behind a strip mall this market district has been built up by Vietnamese immigrants in Prague for the last 4 decades. It’s a slightly chaotic maze of stalls that bears a great resemblances to a real Asian market. Check SAPA out if you want to take a deep dive into some Vietnamese cousine and if you really really want to get off the beaten path in Prague!
How to Get to Sapa – If you want to head to Sapa from Prague’s center take the red metro (the C line) to the Kacerov stop, and then transfer to the 113 bus heading to the “Sidliste Pisnice” stop. It should take you about 20 to 30 minutes by public transport from the center of the city.
Basically…we totally encourage you guys to explore all of Prague’s popular attractions. They are absolutely worth your time. And after you are done, we highly encourage you to get away from the center and see the REAL city. It’s worth it, trust us.
And there you have it guys. A starter’s guide to getting off the beaten path in Prague. There is much more to discover than what we have written here, but this should be a nice place to begin your off the beaten path exploration. We hope this helps you explore a bit more of Prague than you otherwise might have seen. And we hope you find some hidden treasures of your own. If you do feel free to leave us a comment below!
As always, safe travels everyone! We’ll see you on the road!
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